Through New Eyes--Reflection Paper – English 595
Mary Beth Nygaard--April 28, 2008
Why did I pick this year to go on the Italy Trip? Whether it was time availability, desire to travel with my husband, ennui, or simply chance – it was a life changing and joy filled trip for many reasons. From the beginning to the end, I was challenged and enlightened and surprised.
Imagine my surprise, for example, when I realized that not only did I have to take a class in order to go on the trip, but that I would actually have to go to it and do work as well. Of course the class met on Wednesday which is my busiest day at work and usually involves working at night teaching or planning with others depending on my. Then there was the question of which class to take? I hadn’t taken an English course since high school, so with some excitement and some apprehension, I registered for English 595 – The Literature of Italy.
The first day of class I was happy to see that there were people I knew, and that the requirements did not seem too arduous. Introductions revealed me to be Dr. Kunkel’s wife, and time in his class helped me realize that I had indeed made the right choice of classes, as I couldn’t seem to keep my mouth shut in there.
NEW EYES #1: This was the first time I have seen and experienced either Dr. Kunkel or Dr. Bunkers in the classroom, and throughout the semester I continued to grow in respect and admiration for their professionalism, their knowledge in their respective fields, the way they presented the material, and the collaborative nature of their teaching. For the most part it felt like we were all equals, on a journey together. During the trip I thanked Dr. Bunkers mentally many times for the choices she made in what we would explore in class. Mythology, Chain of Being, Daisy Miller and Roman Fever, the videos and discussion of saints all enriched my experience in Italy tremendously. I appreciated her sharing her wisdom and encouraging us to share ours. It was immensely interesting to me to have religious discussions in a secular setting. I don’t hear the varied perspectives on faith issues nearly often enough. I also was very impressed with Dr. Kunkel and his knowledge of the details of the trip, willingness to help people get their needs met, and ability to bring the past to life, even in the short time we English students were in his class. Thank you both for your belief in and care for us as a group.
NEW EYES #2: Coursework
I really didn’t know what to expect in terms of coursework and discussion. I had the books and had read Daisy Miller before class started, and to be frank didn’t think there was much to be said about it. Once we began discussion online and in class, my eyes and mind were opened to literature itself, with its’ own message, place in time and history, and connection to themes and illusions. Who knew about the connection to the romantic poets and the illusions to previous writers? Certainly not me! I have not for a long time participated in discussions about societal roles, except in the church, of course. Thanks Adrienne, for helping me see the focus on ‘heart rather than head, emotion vs. reason, and the childs-eye view’ of the romantic poets. I had no idea what Roman Fever was, or how pervasive it was, not only in the literature of the time, but in the culture. I was, in fact, inspired and educated and encouraged constantly by the discussion forums on D2L and in class. I became a thinker, and such women can be dangerous! I can’t begin to explain how my experience was enriched when I entered the Coloseum and felt the cold, or saw the Mouth of Truth or the place where Audrey Hepburn danced. I noticed references to Mythology and to Julius Caesar everywhere, that I probably would never have paid attention to before. In short, me education enriched my experience, and my experience justified my education.
NEW EYES #3 Relationships
I truly didn’t think about enrichment through relationships when I decided to take the class, except maybe with Drs. Kunkel and Bunkers. As the course went on, I began to get excited to spend time with new people, and began to see and understand the value of a variety of perspectives on the same site, or historical time, or book or saint. I was impressed by the friendliness & competency of all in the group. One of the great gifts of the trip was getting to know well people who would ordinarily remain “that person who was in the Literature of Rome class with me”. Some of my memories of that first day ( a little hazy from fatigue but sweet ):
Sitting in the sidewalk café, hoping to see Katie and Whitney come up from the metro, and greeting various configurations from our group as they passed by excitedly on their first exploration session.
Greeting Katie and Whitney in the lobby of the Hotel, and being glad they were safely there.
Wishing I had the energy to join Andrea Z and her group as they took right off for the first of many power sightseeing trips.
Walking to Santa Maria Maggiore for mass (no one else seemed to want to do this) and practically falling on my face when I fell asleep standing up. We saw Cardinal Law, previously from Boston, afterwards.
Hearing Elizabeth JP and Jessica planning to go walking in the Coloseum at night (risking the evil miasma and vile humors) because it would make such a good journal entry!
The memories continue – unexpected encounters with this or that person, and exchanges that enrich both of our perspectives of the same sight or event. Priceless!
NEW EYES #4 Guided Tours
I have, in the past, been a bit of a snob about guided tours. This started when I lived and worked in Paris when I was 20, and refused to go to the regular tourist spots because I didn’t want to look like a “tourist”. Never again will I be so close minded! The tours we had on this trip were exceptionally helpful, even in places where I had been before. Of course the tour guides were part of that. Sandro had great charm and ability to help us feel like a part of the history we are viewing the remains of. As we were walking toward the Coloseum on the tour, I found myself wondering how living there all the time must affect people. Is the Roman world view broader and more eternal, because of the constant reminders of history and antiquity? Is the attitude that small things (like time or schedule changes) don’t really matter due to the survival of Rome through all the vicissitudes of time? Is the appreciation of beauty and relationships connected to the age old customs and traditions of the city? It seems that to be Roman is to be in touch with everything in life that really matters. I am reminded of City of the Soul, when Mr. Murray speaks of the Roman attitude toward the Holy Year on 2000. The people were pessimistic about the huge crowds coming, many of whom would be youth who wouldn’t spend the money they wanted and needed. Problems about everything were predicted, from sanitation to transportation. But in the end the Romans triumphed: the city flourished, everyone made money, and most of the Romans left town to avoid the crowds when the thundering herds arrived in August. I was there in August of 2000, and even in the heat and crowds got that Roman feeling of triumph and eternal world view. I felt the same indomitable and ancient spirit on the walking tour on March 9th of 2008.
The Vatican Museum, which I find tedious at best, was better with Sandro. I appreciated the explanations of the Sistine, primarily because I heard others express their interest. There must be a better way to visit the Vatican and Sistine Chapel, but until someone figures out just what that would be, I think a guide like Sandro made it as good as it could be. Did he also make the rain stop just as we were coming out of St. Peter’s? I don’t suppose he did, but that was a great blessing for the rest of that day!
The guide for Naples and Pompeii was also helpful. The time in the museum with the explanations of everything from how the sculpture was made, to the importance of the phallic symbol in the culture of the time of the Vesuvius eruption enhanced the trip next day to the excavation. The timing at both Pompeii and Naples was excellent, with time on our own as well as time listening to the wisdom that he had. It would have perhaps been nice to have the afternoon on our own in the ruins, with lunch in the restaurant that is on the site. The balance of guided tour and time to explore individually would have made the day even better than it was. (Would we have been able to go up to the crater then? Probably not – so the tour perhaps excites us to come back and see what we missed!) In addition, I was glad to have watched the video of Pompeii before we came: what a thrill to realize we were standing in the shop of Stephen the Fuller! In fact, all of the shops and homes had so much more meaning after having seen the dramatization. The highlight of the afternoon was the trip to “Volcano Vesuvius” and the walk to the crater. I still can hardly believe I was actually there to see the lava flows and the wisps of smoke mixed with cloud. Being there not only gives me a sense of the magnitude of the eruption, but also of what it must be like to live in the constant presence of that kind of natural power. No wonder the active volcano’s were often (and in some places still are) treated like gods!
Again, the work of our professors, both in arranging the schedule and choosing quality study materials, really had a positive effect on my experience.
NEW EYES #5:
I have never gone sightseeing in Italy without my family. This trip I took a couple of forays on my own, which was great. But the real eye opening that I’ll never forget was the afternoon that I went on a power sightseeing trip with some of my fellow English students. After seeing the Pantheon and finding a bathroom (both of equal importance I assure you), a group of us were off to conquer as many sights as Andrea had circled on the map. I saw things I’d never seen before, and saw things I HAD seen before differently. It was great to be the “church expert” some of the time, and the learner some of the time. I was very moved by my first visit to Santa Maria Sopra Minerva with its’ Filipino Lippi frescos, Risen Christ by Michaelangelo, and relics of St. Catherine of Sienna – beauty everywhere! I actually SAW the Keats/Byron house (how many times have I been to the Spanish Steps and missed it completely). The view from the top of the steps was awesome, and we checked out the Poets Monument but it was closed. We participated in the shortest visit to the Trevi Fountain of all time: pose, click, go!! Then we moved on to the Capuchin Crypt. Apparently these monks moved to this church and made a place of prayer and reverence for their dead in the crypt underneath. There are several rooms, all but one (the one where Mass is celebrated) designed give honor to their beloved dead. The funereal art is completely made up of the monks bones, arranged in decorative patterns on walls and ceilings. So there are such things as rosettes made out of shoulder blades, borders out of vertebra, etc. There are also graves marked on the floors, and several assembled bones with robes on. It is amazing and disturbing. To the Capuchins, it is a holy place, where they gather to pray for the souls of the departed and for evening and morning prayer. To me it was just a little too creepy, and that was the end of my sightseeing for the day. Four of us broke off from the Power Pack and had a leisurely walk home with a stop for wine and conversation: heavenly!
Other new experiences included the free day in Rome, where we walked through the Jewish Quarter, Campo Dei Fiori, Piazza Navona, Mouth of Truth (not to mention the relics of St. Valentine inside the church), the Castel St. Angelo, and the Ari Paci – none of which I had seen before. Even the trip to Orvieto was new through the eyes of students who cane with us for the first time, and the renewing of acquaintances from 2005. By the time the 2 free days were done, however, I was beginning to echo the sentiments of someone who said: “I just want to go somewhere where I don’t have to look at something amazing all the time!!”
NEW EYES #6: Sorrento, Napoli, and Capri
But the amazement continued in the form of Neopolitan pizza, the Archeological museum, the driving tour of Naples and the photo opportunity on the hill – what a grand introduction to the beautiful south! I begin to conquer my fear of driving on the bus ride from Naples to Sorrento – and plenty of time there was for doing that!! The long drive simple served to accentuate the reward of the Hotel Michaelangelo and Sorrento Centro. We felt like we’d been released from prison as we oohed and aahed over our rooms with balconeys, the fine outdoor smoking section, the classy stores and high end martini bars. Palm trees, lemon and orange groves, and the Mediteranean at our feet added to the magic of the area. Sorrento, and later Capri, have a Disneyesque quality about them, made for money and pleasure. It was surely fun for awhile! I can only imagine what the area is like in the height of the season.
Ah, Capri – truly one of the beautiful places in the world. High points:
Walking up (and up) to the Villa Jovis, where EVERY view is a breathtaking one.
Seeing the courtyards of peoples’ homes, and watching local men and women doing their daily shopping, with wheeled shopping carts that cleverly negotiate the stairs.
Eating a picnic lunch while overlooking the Mediteranean Sea and chatting with strangers who shared our bench.
Wading in the Med with Adrianne and Gabrielle.
Shopping in the little stores by the waterfront
Wandering in the lemon grove across from the hotel, with no pressure to do or buy anything, but just soak up the ambiance. Seeing a bunny walking on a leash with a little girl, and having an earnest mom assure me that all people can train their rabbit to walk on a leash if just put their minds to it.
I’ll never forget the final dinner in the amazing restaurant that had been in the family for 120 years, and our feeling of togetherness and celebration. I treasure the conversations and memories with people who learned to appreciate and value each other through this experience. I remember how sad it was to say good-bye at the airport, and how we wished we were traveling back with you.
So I thank all who helped me see with new eyes. I was able to experience not only the people and culture of Italy, but also the very best of community building and intergenerational exchange. May we always remember what we learned about how the past affects the present, how early birds and night owls can not only tolerate but enjoy one another, how appreciating differences (even those bathrooms!) enriches our lives, and that this wonderful trip is only the beginning of life long learning!
Arrividerci Tutti!