Italian Reflections
By Andrea Zimmerman
My ‘Roman Fever’ began as a burning desire to see as many monuments, churches, museums, parks and anything historical in the time provided. Armed with tourist information from Rick Steves, Fodor’s, internet websites, Roman movies, Roman Literature, insights from Professor Kunkel and Professor Bunkers, and well-informed friends, I am ready to tour Italy. Pre-trip, I have studied my map and my Rome’s 25 Best book and come up with a plan. I have circled everything of interest on my map, so when I am in an area, I can be expedient and not miss something close by. On the plane, my fellow classmates laugh at my organization and diligence but then surreptiously start reading their own Italian guidebooks. At the Amsterdam airport, we meet a group of American students studying in Rome for a semester. I ask their advice and am encouraged by their suggestions. I seem to be on the right track. Rome, the eternal city, the birthplace of legalized Christianity, the basis of our modern law, the historical center of western civilization, survivor and conqueror, what will you reveal to me? My map is circled, we should land in early afternoon and I am ready to start touring this ancient city that is the symbol of the history of mankind.
Our bus drive from the airport features a tour guide that regales us with modern life in Italy. For example, Italians do not like royalty, in fact, they have a law against anyone trying to make a claim to the Italian throne. Most Italians only have one child, rarely two. No longer do the Italians have the big families of 10 kids. The roads are small, the cars are small, the houses are small, the country is narrow and it is expensive and crowded in the city areas. As the bus approaches the ancient city and we drive under the Aurelian walls, we are all anxious to view this city that has held such power and interest for over 2500 years. A collective gasp from our group emanates as we catch sight of the ancient Pyramid of the Gaius Cestius, then Constantine’s Arch, and the Colosseum. I am in awe.
At the Palatine Hotel, the bus parks on the narrow street and we all prepare to unload. Everyone is tired from the long plane rides, however, I am cheered when I walk to the street side of the bus to help unload more luggage and an Italian driver is gesturing madly at our bus driver to get out of the way…my first Italian gesture! I am in Rome. I make plans with my roommate and a couple of others to meet downstairs in 20 minutes if they want to go sightseeing with me. I have circled an area not far from our hotel to see the churches of San Clemente, San Giovanni in Laterano and Santa Scala. Our hotel room is different from the American hotel room. A double room consists of two twin beds pushed together. My roommate and I have just met and being Minnesota nice, we separate the beds and give ourselves some privacy. For whatever reason our lights keep turning off and we keep sliding our room key into a slot to turn them on, but they switch off again after a few minutes. Ummm- I am confused. Later, we learn that we have to leave our room key in the slot to have our lights work. Aha - the first of many things I will learn.
A few of us gather in the lobby and we set off, maps in hand, to find San Clemente. It is a beautiful day in Rome and very pleasant for walking. After we notice the road signs are on the corner of the buildings (very important navigation information), we still take a few wrong turns. But then we find San Clemente. There is no big sign heralding this church on my map, it is just suddenly there, rather non-descript on the outside. We enter the old sanctuary. My Fodor’s book states that the current church was built over the “remains of a 3rd century Mithraic temple.” I had never heard of a Mithraic period, and thankfully, I have a history major roommate. It was truly amazing to be in this preserved place, a church upon a church upon an 1800 year old temple. We leave San Clemente to search for Santa Scala. A good friend said she had ascended these holy steps on her knees and it was a must see and do. I took her advice and waited my turn in line. By the looks of the pace going up, it was going to take awhile. Not everyone in our group wanted to do this, so we agreed to meet. Trying to be reverent, I first tried to pray, then my knees really started to ache on those wooden steps, then I was annoyed that there was not a fast lane, then I felt contrite for being a typical tourist, then I wondered what Jesus would think of these pilgrimages. And that consumed my thoughts for the remainder of my ascension. The bible says Jesus often disliked these kinds of outward religious displays. Against the Pharisee’s law, He would heal on Sundays and He disagreed with the Pharisees for many of their rituals and superficial traditions and yet, He allowed expensive perfume to be poured on Him. As I looked around at the devout and some not-so-devout, I decided not to try to figure out what Jesus would think of these people on steps where He had walked. Suddenly, an Italian man started to sing what I can only assume is a hymn and the acoustical sound that reverberated up in that small stairway was intense and beautiful. Time stopped for a moment as I let the reverent offering wash around me. And then reality again, my knees hurt. My pilgrimage over, we cross the street to San Giovanni in Laterano. This basilica pre-dates St. Peter’s, making it the oldest basilica in the world. My mouth drops open as we enter (this will happen a lot on my tours). I have never seen anything so lavish and opulent, with marble sculptures, gilded ceilings, soaring arches, and art by the masters. It was more spectacular than I expected….and I had high expectations of Rome! Our little group slowly wanders back toward our hotel. We run into a couple of students and decide to find dinner. A cute little restaurant down the street from our hotel grabs our attention and we wander in. I order the buccattini. It is fresh, flavorful and filling. The conversation is light and funny. I am enjoying getting to know the other students. After dinner, we wander down the street and stop for our first Italian gelato. My berry gelato is heavenly and the perfect compliment to a heavy dinner. An amazing first day in Rome! Unfortunately, I cannot sleep that night, so I dress and head to the hotel lobby to read and write in my journal. It is 1 am and the street outside our hotel is busy. People are still walking by and the traffic has never let up. Rome never sleeps. Nor do some of our group. They are still wandering in at various times, when I finally head back to my room at 4 am. I can imagine that Daisy Miller was part of the group that never sleeps. There is so much energy in Rome and so much to see and do and experience in this ancient city.
As the days go on, and I check off my list of must-see monuments, churches and interesting places, I wonder about our group’s various ‘Roman Holiday’ experiences. Being in my early 40’s, I know my interests are much different than some of the younger students. Surprising things I have learned in Rome include: hotel lights, public bathrooms without toilet seats, finding good public bathrooms, turning on a faucet with a floor lever in public bathrooms (for awhile I just assumed the faucet did not work), how to use a bidet, how to cross a street like a Roman, how not to get shoulder-checked when walking, the bodies of Roman sculptures were re-used and only new heads were put on for each new emperor, how to drink from a Roman water fountain, the coffee is amazing, pasta and pizza are plentiful, every corner has a church, every view is a postcard, it is surprisingly easy to find my way around, ancient ruins and modern life co-exist, I am not patient, I cannot drink Limoncello, Roman restaurants take too long, everything takes longer in Rome, the evening strolls and busy streets are full of camaraderie, and kindness is universal. I cannot quite fathom that I have walked where Julius Caesar, Cleopatra, the apostles Peter and Paul, DaVinci, Raphael, Bernini, Constantine, Michelangelo, and Jesus walked.
One evening, a small group of us take a walking tour about the darker side of Rome. The stories are intriguing and filled with murder, power, and wealth. Rome has been witness for centuries to the comings and goings of the innocent and the corrupt. I believe that literature is the window into the soul of a society at a given moment in time. “Daisy Miller” was a witness to the intermingling of American and European high-society in the mid-1800’s. “Roman Fever” was witness to the conversations of two middle-aged women and their intermingled lives. Roman Holiday guards the secret of a princess and her newly-realized honorable escort. Julius Caesar is rife with intrigue, powers of persuasion, treachery, and ambition. And Rome has seen it all. Her location on the Tiber River and seven hills has been the setting of the rich and powerful, of the poor and destitute, of intrigue and secrets that are still held today. I am enamored. Our guide on the walking tour of the Forum and the Vatican, often spoke of “conquering.” Roman engineering conquered pre-civilized living. The Roman aqueducts gave life to Rome. The architecture of cathedrals, the Colosseum, and the Pantheon inspire and overshadow our modern buildings and theaters. The art by Michelangelo, Raphael, and Bernini is still the standard-bearer for artists today. The ancient city of Pompeii, two thousand years ago, is a testament to an ordered civilization. We mistakenly think of ancient as substandard, and think of our new and modern conveniences as superior. What wisdom these ancient Aurelian walls contain.
Our tour guide at Scavi, under St. Peter’s Basilica, joked that Romans are lazy by nature and everything takes so long. He mentioned that Rome is trying to build a third metro line, but because of all of the ruins continuously uncovered it may not be done in his lifetime. He is all of 25. For all of their cynicism, I think Romans value their ruins, their history and their mark on civilization. Another tour guide related to us, instead of tearing down, “we recycle.” At the small town of Orvieto, I am enchanted to tour this rural 3000 year old town. Again, I had never heard of an Etruscan society that pre-dated Roman culture. My local guide walked me through this quaint town that guards so many secrets. He told me about the plague, Mussolini, the Pope hiding here during WWII, the caves used for hiding, American paratroopers landing here, Italian youth, and so forth. He is proud of his town and heritage and eager to share it with me. Time stands still as we meander and converse across cultures.
Sharing pictures with friends and family back in Minnesota, I realize how much I saw and experienced in Italy. I am still reflecting and absorbing this remarkable adventure. As I look at pictures and smile, the relationships and memories with my fellow classmates are what stand out. Italy has become the setting for a trip that is as amazing as the people with whom I toured the ancient ruins and sites. For as we walked and toured and learned about the ancient sites, we also grew to know one another. At times, I laughed until I cried. I knew these classmates as mere acquaintances and may never see some of them again. But I know if I do run into them, we will always share this incredible bond of touring Italy together. Similar to Princess Anne in Roman Holiday, “I don’t know how to say goodbye.” But like Mrs. Ansley in “Roman Fever,” I will always have my memories. I threw my coin into Trevi Fountain, and one day I hope to return and uncover more of Italy’s dark corners, secrets, and sunny gardens. After all, I did not conquer everything on my list!
I absolutely loved this class and enjoyed my fellow classmates. I found their insights on the movies and readings intriguing. They saw things I did not see and they helped to broaden my perspective and understanding. I felt that I also offered a different outlook, perhaps due to my older age and life experiences. I participated fully in the D2L discussions and in the classroom. I did miss one class due to some family concerns. I am at that age where I also need to help out my parents and I missed one class when I needed to fly out of state to help them. However, my classmates quickly brought me up to speed. This was a remarkable class that I will forever treasure.
Works Cited
Enjoy Rome. http://www.enjoyrome.com/index.html
Fodor’s Rome’s 25 Best. Fodor’s Travel Publications, 2007
James, Henry. Daisy Miller. Dover Publications,Inc, 1995
Julius Caesar. Director Joseph L Mankiewicz, MGM/UA Home Video, 1953
Rick Steves. <http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/italy/italy_menu.htm>
Roman Fever. Edith Wharton. <http://classiclit.about.com/library/bl-etexts/ewharton/bl-ewhar-roman.htm p=1>
Roman Holiday. Director William Wyler, Paramount, 1953